Discovering Albania - What I never new about this country until visiting.

Albania: A Hidden Gem Waiting to be Explored

Albania was never on my list of places to visit. It had fallen under my radar. I hadn’t heard many people mention it, and I knew nothing about this country. Until recently...

When my husband and I received an invitation to a wedding there, we jumped at the chance. It was an opportunity to celebrate a marriage and discover Albania, a new place for both of us.

View of Himare in the South of Albania - Be prepared for stunning mountain views, beautiful coastline, friendly locals, a rich culture and chaotic roads.

Debunking Albania's Reputation

Films like "Taken" often paint Albania as a dangerous country filled with criminal gangs. However, despite its turbulent past, Albania is a really safe country to travel to. In fact, it had a slightly lower crime rate index number than the UK in 2024 (Albania 45.6 and UK 47.4). (1) Of course, anything can happen anywhere, so if you fancy going to Albania, be vigilant when exploring a new place.

Statue in the centre of Durres of Mujo Ulqinaku who is considered a hero in Albania, resisting the Italian invasion in 1939.

The Most Dangerous Thing in Albania: The Crazy Driving!

Potholes you could disappear down, beeping horns, and unpredictable speed limits that change randomly—welcome to Albanian roads! While stuck in a queue of traffic, we literally saw a driver overtake the line, sail through a red light, and merge into oncoming traffic. No one batted an eyelid.

A guy behind our little Fiat Panda rental car was driving with his energetic toddler squirming on his lap while another hyperactive kid bounced around in the front seat.

Don't get me started on driving through the capital, Tirana. Somehow, two lanes of traffic fit four rows of cars. Drivers push through the smallest gaps, overtake suddenly, and, of course, beep constantly.

When driving at night, be prepared for major roads without lights and no centre reflectors. The UK government website acknowledges the dangers of driving on Albanian roads: "Driving can be very hazardous and often aggressive and erratic. Deaths from road traffic accidents are amongst the highest in Europe." (2) So, if you're a UK driver, I wouldn’t recommend Albania as your first experience driving on the right-hand side of the road.

At the end of the day, we just had to laugh at the chaotic driving and embrace the adventure of continuously swerving as if it were real-life dodgems. Albanians face these roads every day and seem to get on with it, adopting a "free for all" approach to driving. Despite the chaos and constant beeping, there seems to be less rage and anger than on UK roads. Maybe that’s something UK drivers can learn from Albanian drivers.

Despite the crazy driving, we encountered many beautiful roads, particularly in the mountains!

Driving up the twisting narrow roads into the mountains is a real adventure with the reward of dramatic views.

While food and accommodation are cheap, fuel was still quite expensive. Also, when filling up the car, the attendant will always fill it up for you!

Albania: A Recent Democratic Country

Albania transitioned to democracy only in the 1990s. Before that, the country was isolated, and its people lived under various oppressive regimes with little freedom or privacy.

We visited a museum called the "House of Leaves" in Tirana, which showcased the impact of the oppressive regime on Albanians. It highlighted the methods used to spy on people, suppress opinions, and control the media.

As you walk around Tirana and other areas, you’ll notice bunkers built by the paranoid leader. There are hundreds of thousands of them, and constructing these was a huge drain on Albania's resources at the time. Many of the bunkers are now museums that you can visit.

Bunker in a park in Tirana, Albania.

Food is Amazing!

Prepare for a delightful mix of Mediterranean, Greek, and Italian food—with an Albanian twist, of course! You’ll find plenty of pizza, pasta, fresh cheeses, salads, and grilled vegetables. One street food to try is byrek, which is filo pastry typically filled with spinach and feta cheese—yum!

There are also plenty of coffee and dessert places to explore! I would recommend Le Bon in Tirana for amazing desserts. Le Bon

Byrek - Albanian street food consisting of pastry filled with feta and spinach.

Grilled vegetables with balsamic.

A pistachio and chocolate dessert in Tirana which cost about £2.50.

Landscape and Nature

Albania is full of incredible mountains with twisty roads leading to charming villages. There is no shortage of views and dramatic scenery. One day, we ventured north of Durres to a bridge known for being particularly sketchy and dramatic. It had creaky wooden boards nailed to the original structure to patch up various holes and reinforce rotting sections. Crossing the bridge is kind of safe at your own risk. The reward? A dose of adrenaline and breathtaking views over the valley.

Bridge crossing over river in Albania.

Albania boasts a beautiful coastline and many lovely beaches with plenty of little coves to explore. The northern mountain range is known as the Albanian Alps, while the southern coast has been likened to the Maldives. In terms of wildlife, the coolest creature we saw was a praying mantis found creeping around our villa. We also spotted plenty of birds of prey.

Praying mantis found in the house.

Lizard basking on rock.

Language

Determined to show an effort to communicate in the language of our host country, I tried repeatedly to learn a few basic phrases in Albanian. However, I only managed to grasp three words in a whole week! The language is very different from any other European language, having descended from ancient languages and being the last in the Albanoid branch. Despite the language barrier and the lack of Google Translate (our phones didn’t work outside the EU), the locals we met were hospitable and friendly.

Cash-Based Economy

Albania has its own currency, the Lek, which is nearly impossible to get outside of the country. Many places accept euros, but we had to exchange to Lek eventually, as several stores—particularly in remote areas—only accepted Albanian currency. Paying by card is often not an option.

Why Go to Albania?

Albania offers a cultural and nature adventure that feels different from countries within the EU. It’s a safe country that still has a raw and rugged feel, making it an off-the-beaten-path destination. I would love to return to Albania and explore more of the mountains, particularly the Albanian Alps in the North and those in the South.

View of Vlore, Albania.

1. Crime Rate by Country

2. UK Government Travel Advice